But we're not here because it's better, we're here because it's different. As badly as I wanted to read street signs and soup labels, I wish a hundred times more achingly that I could stand here reading every one of these thousands of prayers to find out what they ask for, and how. It may take me years to figure out what I saw on this trip. In a nine-hour return flight I translate two sets of toilet instructions, half of a one-page magazine article about a band I only sort of like, and two of the clearer of these prayers. "After the bad green runs out, there is good green." Maybe. The big character stamped on the paper is for money. I hope the bad money runs out soon.